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cdhknives · Flour Bluffian in training Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 297

Yet again I get out to fish and find another rod with the ceramic insert popped out. Every time the metal ring has rusted and cracked, releasing the tension and allowing the insert to pop out. I can wash them religiously every time and still don't get more than 1 or 2 years from them!

Yeah, the couple of $100+ rods I have don't do it...better materials I guess. That is a lot more money than I want to spend on beater rods for guests and my kids.

Who makes a $20-$40 rod with real stainless or titanium eyes that won't rust and break so quickly. I'm sick of this cr<stinky>!
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Why is it that these days sales people seem to be as honest as I am knowledgeable?

hickroots07 · Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:09 am Post subject:

Buy a replacement eye and learn how to replace them yourself. It's fairly simple and doesn't cost much.
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Great captains, the stuff of legend, are made not by what they have caught, but by what they have given back.

Gib · Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 12:36 pm Post subject: Super glue

When rod is new, run a little super glue around metal and eye insert. It will not stop it, but it will extend life a little longer.

When metal does break, use a little JB Weld and it is good for life.

Sometimes I get two piece rods because of better price, you can glue two pieces together with epoxy or JB Weld, and it will never come apart.

Until day I can get good stuff, this is what I do, and it works for me.

Rods last me anywhere from 3 to 6 years. I seem to catch fish on them, I can get a whole lot of them that will carry me through for 10 to 15 years for price of one expensive one. Don't get me wrong, they are nice, but I have six people using equipment. I do not go insane when one breaks because it is five or ten dollars instead of $500 or $1000.

Hope this helps.

cdhknives · Flour Bluffian in training Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 297

LOL, I've bought the rod building epoxy twice and it goes bad waiting for me to be in the right frame of mind to try grinding the old epoxy off...eventually I have 3-4 busted rods in the corner getting in the way and I trash them. I know I need to learn, I do all kinds of other stuff using epoxy...just can't get the first ones done to break the ice so to speak. I've tried to superglue them back in, but that didn't last very long.

I have a lathe now, so spinning them for wrapping ought to be simple enough...time to buy some more I guess.

The latest was the cheap rod we bought my now 10 year old last year for her birthday...she's not happy. Maybe it's time I repair one.
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Why is it that these days sales people seem to be as honest as I am knowledgeable?

rawlbay · Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 1:49 pm Post subject:

With respect to titanium guides on a rod in that pricepoint, not gonna happen. Maybe that "TiChrome" plated stuff, key word maybe, but actual titanium guides themselves cost more than what you are looking to spend on the whole rod. Get what you pay for...

flounder daddy · Guest

Number 1 rule with rod guide eyes. DO NOT store your hook/leader hooked to the guide eye, put it on the guide frame or on a hook holder. Its the quickest way to ruin guides.

animal · Finger Mullet Joined: 15 Mar 2007 Posts: 25

Don't grind the epoxy...heat the epoxy with a butane lighter...then slice with a razor where u heated...then simply peel it off from around the guide...re wrap a replacemt guide and epoxy and let dry...pretty simple

hickroots07 · Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 3:39 pm Post subject:

cdhknives · Flour Bluffian in training Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 297

magadorm · Horse Mullet Joined: 25 Jul 2012 Posts: 131

KingKilla · Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 9:07 am Post subject: Simple guide removal

Here is an even simpler way to remove a broken guide. Use a sharp carpet knife or exacto to cut through the epoxy and thread on top of the guide foot. Cut all the way through. You dont have to worry about damaging the blank because you are cutting on the metal guide foot. Once you do that, pop the guide off. Now you can usually just use your fingernails to pick the rest of the epoxy and thread off. Or, if you can get ahold of the end of the thread just unwrap it and the epoxy will flake off as you go. No heat or grinding necessary.

This usually works on factory built rods. Not so much on custom rods. The epoxy that most factories use is much stiffer and more brittle than the rod builders epoxy so it flakes off pretty easy. Most factory rods also have a much thinner coat.