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Vehicle Protection
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HighTide
Member White Shrimper Boot Club


Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 552
Location: Padre Isles

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 11:47 am    Post subject: Vehicle Protection Reply with quote

I'm picking up a new 4WD truck today and I'm begining to have some doubts about taking it to the PINs 4WD area right away. The reason is because the metal underneath is new and shiny and can rust pretty easily. How do I protect the underside without having to pay the dealer to do it? I suspect anything you spray on the muffler and catalytic converter will go up in smoke immediately and offer no protection. OK guys, what's the best and cheapest?

Also, is the PINs even driveable right now (after the hurricane's effects)?
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If changes in barometric pressure cause your joints to hurt, do pilots and divers have a lot of joint pain?
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Tyler
Site Admin


Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 12865

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 11:49 am    Post subject: Re: Vehicle Protection Reply with quote

carlosh wrote:
I'm picking up a new 4WD truck today and I'm begining to have some doubts about taking it to the PINs 4WD area right away. The reason is because the metal underneath is new and shiny and can rust pretty easily. How do I protect the underside without having to pay the dealer to do it? I suspect anything you spray on the muffler and catalytic converter will go up in smoke immediately and offer no protection. OK guys, what's the best and cheapest?

Also, is the PINs even driveable right now (after the hurricane's effects)?


PINS is still closed and is full of debris
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ironmanstan
Exalted Ruler of Flour Bluff


Joined: 04 Oct 2006
Posts: 12256

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

at the very least get it undercoated...."oil trell" they did mine plus the bedliner. Get it done before you get it wet and dirty underneath. Its all the same stuff, some just do it cheaper than others. Start calling around. Very Happy
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frayed
Full Grown Flour Bluffian


Joined: 19 Jun 2008
Posts: 1535
Location: Austin and a lil East of the Bluff

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't really answer your question other than telling you what I did on the 4runner I just bought. I picked up 6 cans of this stuff

http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/applications/automotive.html

To stave off corrosion. I used to live up in the rustbelt, and found hard undercoatings like Ziebart to have limited effectiveness.

There are other oil based solutions. Some folks use bar&chain oil and the like.

But I did this on an 8 y/o 125k mile vehicle, expecting it disintegrate eventually. Decided that new truck + PINS = not a good idea.
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Tyler
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Linseed oil works well. Just avoid spraying the stuff that gets hot.
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HighTide
Member White Shrimper Boot Club


Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 552
Location: Padre Isles

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I've seen linseed oil at Home Depot. Is that what you mean, Tyler? I suspect I could put that on with my SS sprayer. How long does it last?
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HighTide

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If changes in barometric pressure cause your joints to hurt, do pilots and divers have a lot of joint pain?
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Tyler
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 12865

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

carlosh wrote:
I think I've seen linseed oil at Home Depot. Is that what you mean, Tyler? I suspect I could put that on with my SS sprayer. How long does it last?


yes that is it and lasts about a year or so.
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txsport
Pony Mullet


Joined: 12 Oct 2006
Posts: 53
Location: San Antonio

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 4:51 pm    Post subject: undercoating Reply with quote

Not sure if undercoating will completely rust proof the truck. One of my first 4x4 trucks was registered in Alaska and had the undercoating applied. Looked closer and found lots of rust underneath the undercoating in many areas. Since then I only use my oldest 4x4 to run down the beach. I did spray paint the newer trucks underneath with a quality rust inhibitor black paint. I also wash each truck off from bottom to top once I get off of the beach.
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RedEd
Pony Mullet


Joined: 10 Jun 2008
Posts: 50
Location: 208 miles til the end of the blacktop

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 5:01 pm    Post subject: Linseed oil Reply with quote

When using linseed oil does one have to protect painted surfaces? Ya know...does it leave spots, make paint peel, etc? Do I need to mask it off? I have a new white truck{FORD} and I'd hate to screw up the paint.
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larry meinert
Member White Shrimper Boot Club


Joined: 29 Jul 2006
Posts: 886
Location: Dallas Texas

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most all body parts on new trucks are coated at the factory before painting. Like txsport said, any area that has any spots on it will rust if you undercoat over them. I went through this when I got my new truck in 05. I spoke to several people that said undercoating is not necessary and opted not to do it. 3 years and over 100 days camping on south beach, the only rust is on the cast iron parts such as brake drums, drive shaft and yolks, steering box and a few other various nuts, bolts, and clamps. L
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TeamMorningWood
Horse Mullet


Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Posts: 207
Location: P.I.N.S. / San Antonio

PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 4:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carlos it looks like you are in Austin and make weekend trips to PINS? If you are just a weekend warrior, like myself, I wouldn't do a thing to your new ride other than run it through a carwash that has a undercarrage wash after each trip. Now if you lived on the island I would take more advanced steps. There are a couple, maybe more??, car washes on SPID close to PINS. When we head down for the weekend I will roll through that carwash as we head off the island...the one just after 361. It's not much of a 'wash' but more of a undercarrage rinse. Been doing this going on two years and the Explorer still looks purty underneath. Of course with regular street driving the clean shiney frame and muffler will turn a dull grey regardless what you do.

IMO, and I have done both, the only time you need to have a spray coating/rust inhibitor is when you live next to the ocean or you live up north and have to deal with the salt/chemicals they put on the street when it snows. A few trips to the sand each month is nothing to worry about. Rinse it off and you are good to go.
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HighTide
Member White Shrimper Boot Club


Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 552
Location: Padre Isles

PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TeamMorningWood, you're right. I do live in Austin, but I also have a canal front house on the island. I agree with what you say about washing the undercarriage. I intend to do just that, though I think the car wash by 361 closed. There is an undercarriage wash in Flour Bluff.

I picked up my new 4X4 Tundra yesterday and I noticed on the window sticker that they nailed me for $200 for some undercarriage spray protection. I'm guessing that with that and washing, the truck should last me a few years. Tyler, do I need the linseed oil on top of that?
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HighTide

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If changes in barometric pressure cause your joints to hurt, do pilots and divers have a lot of joint pain?
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kingtender
Flour Bluffian in training


Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 436

PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oiltrell did mine. They offer a respray for a cheap price. I would definiatley get the real stuff sprayed. Pay a little now or pay a lot later. I sure wish I had got it done on my other truck.
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gonefishing
Flour Bluffian in training


Joined: 27 Dec 2007
Posts: 335
Location: Corpus Christi, TX

PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 7:37 am    Post subject: Zibart Reply with quote

Zibart will undercoat a truck for around $125. If you want the full package, it's closer to $250ish I think. You will need to wait at least a week for the stuff to dry before taking it on the beach otherwise you'll end up with several pounds of sand permanently stuck to the sticky goo they spay on. They told me 48 hrs was typical, but I found it took a lot longer, perhaps due to the humidity.
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frayed
Full Grown Flour Bluffian


Joined: 19 Jun 2008
Posts: 1535
Location: Austin and a lil East of the Bluff

PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to clarify, it's the ziebart-type rustproofing products that I found not to work well when I lived in the Rustbelt. Up there (Rochester/Buffalo) the roads are heavily salted during the winter. You spend 4 mos. a year driving through saltwater covered streets. The saltwater would end up getting into cracks in the ziebart and rust underneath the coating.

But that was 20 years ago, so the zibart stuff may be totally different now.

Other approaches (bar&chain oil, linseed, oiltrell, lanolin (fluid film)) rely on a wet or tacky film. Since my 4runner is left on the island, I thought I'd try that approach.

Anyway, don't new vehicles generally come with a 7 year corrosion warranty? Maybe you don't need to do anything.
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